The Complete Guide to Lace-Style Dies for Card Making
Lace-style dies have become a favorite among card makers who want delicate openwork backgrounds, intricate borders, and airy focal layers without hand cutting dozens of tiny holes. These specialty cutting dies are designed to create a fine lattice or openwork effect that mimics the look of paper lace, adding a refined, elegant finish to handmade cards. Because they produce many small cutouts and very narrow connecting bridges, lace-style dies behave differently from standard shape dies and require a more thoughtful approach to cutting, releasing, and designing.
In this guide, you will learn what lace-style dies are, how their construction differs from ordinary dies, and what to look for when choosing them for your next card project. You will also find practical tips for getting clean cuts, preventing stuck paper, and using lace-style dies alongside other card making tools. Whether you are new to die cutting or looking to expand your existing collection, understanding these distinctions will help you avoid common frustrations and create truly delicate lace effects.
The focus here is on the dies themselves and the specific techniques that make them work well for card making. Rather than repeating general lace pattern tutorials, this guide covers the unique construction, selection criteria, and cutting best practices that apply to lace-style dies across different brands and machine types used in home crafting.
Quick Answer

Lace-style dies are thin metal dies with many closely spaced internal cut lines and narrow connectors that create openwork lace patterns. They need sharper cutting pressure and careful paper release compared with standard solid dies. Choose fresh plates, low-tack tape, and a die brush for best results.
What Are Lace-Style Dies?

Lace-style dies are cutting dies specifically designed to produce delicate openwork patterns that resemble paper lace, filigree, or cutwork. They are usually made from thin flat metal, often chemically etched or laser cut from a steel sheet, and they feature numerous internal cut lines, tiny perforations, scalloped edges, and slender connecting bars. When the die is pressed through a die-cutting machine, these internal lines cut through the cardstock, leaving behind a lacy framework with many open spaces.
The openwork effect is not created by a single outer cut or a simple embossed line. Instead, the die contains a dense arrangement of very fine metal blades that slice through the paper in hundreds of small areas at once. The remaining paper forms narrow bridges that hold the design together and create the characteristic airy look. This is why lace-style dies often feel more fragile than solid shape dies and why they require more even, controlled pressure.
Within card making, lace-style dies are available in several broad categories, including full background panels, border strips, corner accents, doily or medallion shapes, and overlay pieces. Some designs feature repeating floral or botanical motifs, while others use geometric lattice, honeycomb, or scalloped patterns. Regardless of the exact motif, the key identifying feature is the high level of internal openwork and the fine connectors between cut areas.
How Lace-Style Dies Differ from Standard Dies

A standard die used in card making often cuts a solid shape, such as a circle, label, or simple frame. It may include a few internal score lines or small accent cuts, but the majority of the die face is either open for embossing or solid for cutting an outer perimeter. With standard dies, the paper typically releases easily, and the cutting pressure required is moderate. They are also less likely to trap tiny paper pieces or bend under normal use.
Lace-style dies, by contrast, are built around fine detail. They may have dozens or even hundreds of internal cut lines, many of them less than a millimeter apart. The narrow paper bridges left behind can be very thin, which means the die must cut cleanly all the way through without tearing the paper or leaving fuzzy fibers. This creates several practical differences. Lace-style dies often need slightly more cutting pressure, either from a fresh pair of cutting plates or from a paper or metal shim placed in the sandwich. They are also more prone to trapping cut pieces inside the narrow channels, which can make releasing the paper more time-consuming. Finally, because the thin metal lines are more delicate, lace-style dies should be stored flat and handled with care to avoid bending or dulling the fine cutting edges.
Another difference is visual. Standard dies may add a shape or a frame, but lace-style dies transform a solid piece of cardstock into an openwork panel that lets the card base or a contrasting layer show through. This openwork quality is what makes lace-style dies especially popular for wedding cards, sympathy cards, feminine birthday designs, and vintage or shabby chic styles.
Types of Lace-Style Dies for Card Making

Lace-style dies are not a single product category. They come in several common formats, each suited to different card making needs. Understanding the format can help you choose the right die for your project and avoid buying an item that is too large or too detailed for your machine.
Background lace dies
Background lace dies are often rectangular panels, sometimes just under 4.25 by 5.5 inches or slightly larger depending on the manufacturer. They are intended to cut an entire card front layer with an all-over openwork pattern. Because they cover a large area and contain many small cuts, background lace dies usually require a die-cutting machine with a sufficiently wide platform and may need extra pressure, such as a metal shim or precision plate, to cut evenly across the whole panel. Medium-weight cardstock often works well, but you may need to test with your specific machine because some platforms do not distribute pressure perfectly across the full die.
Border and corner lace dies
Border and corner lace dies are designed to add openwork detail to card edges, mats, or layered panels. A border die typically cuts a repeating pattern along one side of a strip of cardstock, while a corner die adds a decorative lace element to a corner. Many card makers use two border dies on opposite sides or combine border and corner pieces to create a decorative frame. These dies are generally narrower and easier to cut than full background panels, but they still contain many small internal openings that can trap paper.
Doily and medallion lace dies
Doily and medallion lace dies create circular, oval, or shaped lace pieces that can be used as focal points, layers, or dimensional embellishments. They often feature concentric rings of openwork, scalloped edges, and symmetrical motifs. Because they are smaller than full panels, they can be a good way to practice using lace-style dies before moving on to larger, more demanding background designs.
Overlay and edge lace dies
Overlay lace dies are designed to cut a panel that will be layered directly over a solid piece of cardstock, allowing the color beneath to show through the openwork. Edge lace dies cut a shaped edge with a lacy pattern that runs along the side of a card front or a layered panel. Both formats rely on the contrast between the solid base and the open lace layer, so they are especially effective when the two layers are different colors or textures.
Choosing Lace-Style Dies: What to Look For

Because lace-style dies are more demanding than simple shape dies, it is worth spending a little time evaluating them before you buy. The right die can last for years and produce consistent, clean cuts, while a poorly made or overly fragile die can quickly become a source of frustration.
First, look at the density of the openwork. Dies with many very thin connectors produce a more delicate lace look, but they also require more careful pressure and paper selection. If you are new to lace-style dies, you may want to choose a design with slightly wider connectors or fewer internal cuts, then work up to more intricate patterns as you gain experience. A die with fewer, larger openings will be easier to release and less likely to tear.
Second, check the overall size and whether it fits your die-cutting machine platform. A full 6 by 6 inch lace background die may not cut evenly on a machine with a smaller platform, even if the plates technically fit. If your machine cannot apply pressure across the whole die at once, you may end up with incomplete cuts in the center or along one edge. Larger platforms or specialty plates can help, but it is safest to confirm the die dimensions against your machine’s specifications before purchasing.
Third, consider the metal quality and construction. Lace-style dies are typically thin metal dies made by chemical etching or laser cutting. Look for a clean etch with no visible burrs or uneven sections. While it is difficult to judge metal quality without handling the die, a reputable craft brand with clear packaging and a flat, undamaged die is usually a safer choice. Avoid dies that are already bent or warped, as even a slight curve can make it impossible to get an even cut.
Best Practices for Cutting Lace-Style Dies

Getting a clean cut with lace-style dies is often a matter of tuning your cutting sandwich and taking a few extra steps to manage the paper and the die. These techniques are useful across most manual die-cutting machines used in home crafting, but always start with the manufacturer’s recommended plate combination for your specific machine.
Prepare your machine and plates
Make sure your cutting plates are clean, flat, and not heavily warped. Worn or curved plates can reduce pressure in some areas and cause incomplete cuts. If your plates are bowed, consider replacing them or rotating them so the bow faces away from the die. For lace-style dies, many crafters add a paper shim, such as a piece of cardstock or copy paper, to increase pressure. A metal shim or precision plate can also help, but follow the machine manufacturer’s guidance to avoid damaging your machine.
Choose the right cardstock
Paper choice has a big effect on how well lace-style dies cut and release. Smooth, medium-weight cardstock often works best because it slices cleanly and does not leave many fibers in the die. Very thick or heavily textured cardstock may require more pressure and can be more likely to tear at the narrow connectors. Lightweight paper may cut easily but can be flimsy when lifted. If you are unsure, start with a simple white or cream cardstock in the 65 to 110 pound range and test a small scrap before cutting your good paper.
Use low-tack tape to hold the die in place
Lace-style dies have many small internal pieces, and the die can shift slightly as it passes through the machine. Using a piece of low-tack tape, such as painter’s tape or washi tape, to secure the die to the cardstock can help keep all the cut lines aligned. Tape the die from the front without covering too many cutting areas, and remove the tape gently after cutting. Avoid high-tack tape that may tear the paper or leave residue on the die.
Release the cut pieces carefully
After cutting, you will often find many small paper pieces stuck inside the die. Rather than prying them out with a sharp tool, use a die brush, a soft toothbrush, or a paper piercer with a rounded tip to gently push the pieces through from the back of the die. Some crafters place a piece of wax paper or a used dryer sheet between the die and the cardstock before cutting, which can help the cut pieces release more easily. If you try this, trim the wax paper to the size of the die and discard it after one or two uses.
Make a test cut first
Because every machine and paper combination is slightly different, always test a new lace-style die on a scrap of the same cardstock you plan to use. Check the cut from both sides to see if it is clean all the way through. If some areas are not cut, add a thin paper shim and try again. If the die is cutting too deeply and leaving marks on the cutting plate, remove a shim or use a slightly lighter pressure. Adjust in small increments until you get a clean cut without damaging the die or the plates.
Preventing Common Problems with Lace-Style Dies

Even experienced card makers occasionally run into issues with lace-style dies. Most problems fall into a few categories: stuck paper pieces, incomplete cuts, bent or warped dies, and paper tearing at the narrow connectors. Here is how to avoid them.
- Stuck paper pieces: Use wax paper or a dryer sheet between the die and your cardstock, and keep a die brush nearby to push out stubborn bits. Work from the back of the die and do not use metal picks that might scratch the cutting edge.
- Incomplete cuts: Add a paper shim or a metal shim if your machine allows it. Rotate the die 180 degrees and pass it through a second time if only one side is not cutting. Use fresh cutting plates if the old ones are heavily warped.
- Bent or warped dies: Store lace-style dies flat, not propped upright or tossed loosely in a bin. If a die becomes bent, gently press it flat with a heavy book or a flat steel block, but be cautious not to crease the metal. Severely warped dies may no longer cut evenly.
- Paper tearing at connectors: Try a slightly heavier or smoother cardstock, or reduce the number of layers in your sandwich. If the connectors are very thin, choose a die with slightly wider connectors or handle the cut piece with extra care when removing it from the die.
Card Design Approaches with Lace-Style Dies

Lace-style dies work best when the openwork pattern is allowed to stand out against a contrasting background. Because the die already adds a great deal of visual interest, it is often helpful to keep the rest of the card simple. A single lace panel on a plain card base, with a small sentiment, can look elegant without extra embellishment. If you want a more layered design, choose a background color that contrasts with the lace panel, such as a white lace overlay on a soft pastel card base or a metallic cardstock underneath a dark lace layer.
Attaching lace panels can be a little tricky because you do not want adhesive smeared across the open holes. Use a fine-tip glue pen, small dots of liquid adhesive applied to the solid parts of the design, or foam tape placed only on the outer frame and a few central areas. If you use foam tape, cut it into small pieces or use narrow strips that stay behind the paper bridges. For background panels that will be fully adhered, a tape runner with a fine tip can work, but avoid rolling it over areas with many open spaces.
Lace-style dies also work well for wedding and sympathy cards because the openwork adds a formal, delicate quality. You can pair a white lace panel with a pearl or satin ribbon accent or leave it completely clean for a modern look. Vellum can be used with some lace-style dies to create a soft translucent overlay, but vellum often requires a shim and careful handling because it is thinner and more prone to tearing. Test on scrap first, and do not assume that a vellum piece will release as easily as cardstock.
Caring for and Storing Lace-Style Dies

Because lace-style dies have many fine metal lines, they are more susceptible to bending, dulling, and rust than simple solid dies. After each use, remove any paper fibers or small cut pieces from the die with a soft brush. Avoid using water or chemical cleaners on the die, as moisture can cause rust on some metal dies. If you notice adhesive residue from tape, gently rub it away with a soft cloth or a piece of adhesive remover that is safe for metal, then dry the die completely.
Store lace-style dies flat in a die storage pocket, a magnetic sheet, or a shallow plastic container. If you use magnetic sheets, make sure the die lies completely flat without curling at the edges. Keeping each die separate or in its original packaging can also prevent fine points from catching on other dies and bending. Avoid storing dies in a damp or humid area, and keep them away from direct sunlight or heat sources that could affect the metal over time.
Conclusion

Lace-style dies offer card makers a way to add intricate openwork, delicate borders, and airy focal layers that would be nearly impossible to cut by hand. Their unique construction, with many fine internal cut lines and narrow connectors, sets them apart from standard solid dies and calls for a more careful approach to pressure, paper selection, and release. By understanding how lace-style dies differ from ordinary cutting dies and following the best practices for cutting, cleaning, and storing them, you can create beautiful lace effects for all kinds of handmade cards. Whether you choose a full background panel, a doily medallion, or a simple corner accent, the right techniques will help you get clean cuts and enjoy the process.
FAQ

What makes a die a lace-style die?
Lace-style dies are cutting dies that produce openwork patterns with many small cutouts and very narrow paper connectors, creating a lace-like or filigree effect. They differ from standard dies by having a high density of internal cut lines rather than just an outer shape.
Do lace-style dies work in all die-cutting machines?
Most lace-style dies are thin metal dies that fit standard manual die-cutting machines with two clear cutting plates and a base platform. However, larger background panels may require a wider platform, and some machines may need an extra shim to cut all the fine details cleanly. Always check the die dimensions against your machine’s specifications.
Why do my lace-style die cut pieces get stuck?
Stuck pieces are common because lace-style dies have many narrow channels that trap small paper offcuts. You can reduce sticking by placing wax paper or a used dryer sheet between the die and the cardstock, and by using a die brush or soft toothbrush to push out the pieces after cutting.
Can I use lace-style dies with vellum or specialty paper?
Yes, vellum and some specialty papers can be used, but they often require more testing and may need a shim to cut cleanly. Vellum is thinner and more prone to tearing at the narrow connectors, so make a test cut first and handle the cut piece gently.
How do I clean and store lace-style dies?
Clean lace-style dies after each use by brushing away paper fibers with a soft brush. Avoid water and harsh cleaners, because moisture can cause rust. Store the dies flat in a die pocket or on a magnetic sheet to prevent bending the fine metal lines.
Do I need a metal shim for lace-style dies?
Not always, but a metal shim or precision plate can help if you are getting incomplete cuts, especially with large background panels or thicker cardstock. Start without a shim and add one only if needed, following your die-cutting machine manufacturer’s guidance to avoid damage.